Photograph by Gregory J. Kinglsey
An Unusual Structure Rising from the Irish Sea
In the middle of Douglas harbour in the Isle of Man, there’s an unusual structure.
A grey, wave-lashed building that looks like a miniature medieval castle pokes out of the sea, complete with turrets and crenelated battlements.
How did it get there? Who would want to build a castle in the middle of the Irish Sea, and why?
Enter Sir William Hillary and the RNLI
Sir William Hillary, the founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution, lived in Douglas in the early 1800s. Time again, he observed ships being wrecked on Conister Rock, otherwise known as St. Mary’s Isle, in Douglas harbour, with sailors being marooned there. In 1822, he helped rescued the crew of the Vigilant, who had been wrecked on the reef.
In high tide or stormy conditions, the rocks lie just beneath the sea’s surface, waiting to capture unknowing vessels. Sir William proposed the building of a sanctuary for any sailors who had been tossed into the sea so they could wait there until help arrived.
Finally, in 1830, a ship called The St. George ran aground on St. Mary’s Isle, prompting the construction of Sir William’s proposed sanctuary. John Welch designed the structure that still stands there today. Sir William laid its first stone in 1832.
William Wordsworth’s Poetic Touch
After it was completed, the building was stocked with fresh water and bread for anyone marooned there. When William Wordsworth visited the Isle of Man in 1833, he was so taken with the new structure he wrote a poem about it:
A Tower of refuge built for the else forlorn.
Spare it, ye waves, and lift the mariner,
Struggling for life, into its saving arms!
Visiting the Tower of Refuge in Douglas Today
Nowadays, the Tower of Refuge is a great landmark, and is mainly used for shelter not by shipwrecked mariners, but by seagulls. Every year, during the lowest spring tide, Douglas Corporation organises a mass walk for anyone wanting to walk along the wet sand to the Tower. Fittingly, they give the proceeds to the RNLI.
No Way To Live
The Tower of Refuge provides the backdrop for a scene in my novel No Way To Live, about a London gangster who travels to the Isle of Man to help one of his gang’s intended victims. This does not please his boss. She thought she could trust him, of all people.
FAQ
Who built the Tower of Refuge? Sir William Hilary proposed it, but John Welch built it.
Who owns the Tower of Refuge? The original owner of Conister Rock, a Mr. Quane, gave the title and deeds to the RNLI, but Douglas Corporation now has responsibility for its upkeep.
How can I walk out to the Tower of Refuge? The annual walk happens every spring during the lowest tide. You can check Douglas City Centre Management’s Facebook page for details.
Further Reading
The Vampire Grave of the Isle of Man
The Demon Dog of the Isle of Man
What do the Isle of Man and Indonesia have in common?
Links
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